Fort Kochi

 

In the times of well packaged holidays and brisk itineraries, some destinations have stilled managed to keep the indulgent spirit of travel intact. The charming town of Fort Kochi certainly is one of them. Apart from the affable status of being Cochin’s alluringly accessible namesake, Fort Kochi owns an illustrious past, being the melting point of many cultural standpoints – Jews, Portuguese, Dutch, British and Chinese.  It’s easy to slip into a glorious bygone era with prominent historical buildings and references in and around Kochi.

Un-missable in Fort Kochi

This coastal hamlet has established itself as a much needed break from the trappings of the busy Cochin town, adapting easily to the position of a quaint and captivating destination, which appeals to the Western traveller. With a number of activities strewn at walking distances, the town is culture & history heavy and yet not overbearing. The most prominent of the ‘must-see’ spots in town are the Chinese Fishing nets. The nets greet you at the central square of the town and enjoy the fascination of many visitors. An occasional tourist is seen imploring the fishermen to try a hand at this enormous tool, introduced to the town by the Chinese. Mornings are privy to a flurry of activity at the nets, with a small fish market bordering them. The Jew Street, Santa Cruz Basilica, the Dutch Palace & Vasco Da Gama Church are some of the few places of interest that also never seem to be stale for the visitors. The eminent explorer Vasco Da Gama is said to be buried at the church with a surprisingly ‘non-elaborate’ tomb stone.

Fort Kochi is the home to now maybe 6-7 Jew families, who were once a part of a large community who came with the wave of the burgeoning spice trade of South Asia. One of the few synagogues here stands testimony to the glorious time of the cultural blend. The synagogue stands at the end of a snaking narrow path, flanked by antique shops. One must be aware that these are worked upon weathered goods and all may not be original antiques. The monuments of Fort Kochi are great to pamper the history buff inside you. One can take a chronological route to trace the remnants of Jews, Portuguese, Dutch and finally the British.

The colonial influence, though, has not permeated the Kerala culture completely in this town. The confluence of many traditions actually offers a heady cocktail of local eating joints, typical Kerala music and dance and a variety of international fare to choose from. Easily packaged shows of Kathakali, Kalaripayattu and other Kerala styles of dance and music can be experienced here. It is a great way of getting a brief taste of what Kerala has to offer, especially if Fort Kochi is one of the first stops one is making into the state.

Untreaded Paths

While one can easily explore this tourist friendly town with remarkably clear signages and reasonably good weather for a coastal town in India, it’s some of the hidden nooks and corners which might appeal to many. Meandering through narrow lanes and making that one little effort to really get into the skin of the place always makes one feel like you unearthed the biggest mystery – a joy for every traveller.  There is no better way to have a peep into these curious narrow local sites than the recently introduced Tuk-Tuk Odyssey. A novel project for auto-rikshaws introduced with the help of none other than Graham Hughes of National Geographic, this is by far the most delightful way to get a quick orientation of the town. Well spoken auto drivers greet guests with the morning paper, a bottle of water and a guide book and bump along the winding roads to hit the tourist spots. At a reasonable price, this brainchild of one of the locals, Mr. Sham Joseph, has gained immense popularity for those who do not want to spend a lot of time languidly in all museums and monuments. While one can gratify the history bug with the guide book, the Rikshaw driver throws in his own bit of some local gossip and a contradictory anecdotal an analysis. Perfect way to get by to the local spice market, dhobi-ghat and busy markets off the manicured town.

Contrary to the information which many visitors are fed about the Jews coming to Fort Kochi first, a lesser known wonder close to town is where history has really been etched. Kodangalloor offers many firsts to the region – first church in India, first mosque in India and the onset of the Jew and Portuguese permeation in the region. Even though the place is brimming with history, the non chalance about its importance is the most pleasant thing about it. The other things to see are the Bhagwati Temple, Our Lady of Snow Church, an ancient Portuguese battle fort and four eminent synagogues strewn in verdant surroundings. The famous mathematician Aryabhatt is sad to hail from this area. The history of the tolerant Cheraman regime is bound to astound one and is told by a few enthusiastic people who are tirelessly working to give Kodungallur the rightful place on the tourist map. Small weaving & pottery villages along the way establish the rawness of Kodungallur – so pleasantly ‘un-touristic’.

Another ‘off the beaten path’ place is the neighbouring island of Kumbalangi. Here, one can see crab & prawn cultivation in natural surroundings. A destination being promoted by Kerala Tourism, it is relatively untouched and good to spend a day amongst locals to see coir making, ride in local boats amongst mangroves and be privy to toddy tapping – a must for all visitors.

Walking trails for the footloose traveller

Armed with a hand-drawn map of some of the key places to shop and eat, the simple streets of Fort Kochi can be a delightful gastronomic adventure. These streets are great to satiate the palette and the pocket for an evening of cafes and curios. Kashi Cafe, Vasco Cafe, Tea pot & Dal Roti have managed to catch the interest of discerning travellers and are great to unwind and catch up on your travelogues and reading. Try the sumptuously sinful chocolate cake and filter coffee at Kashi’s!

 

Home away from Home

Kerala, most certainly was the forerunner in establishing the concept of homestays in India. With a large number springing up in the city, these are affordable and make one get upclose to the Malayalam culture. Apart from the homestays, some extraordinary hotels (mostly heritage buildings) are perfect to kick up your shoes in.

Destinations off Fort Kochi

Fort Kochi makes a stress-free entry into the heart of Kerala with close proximity to places like Alappuzha and Marari. After a sumptuous break from your dose of cafes and history, it’s easy to drift towards the serene backwaters and beaches.

Things to Know:

1. The Tourist Police of Fort Kochi is one of its kind in India. The sheer thought of having a special law and order enforcement force for the town goes to exhibit the colossal effort being made to make this destination conducive for female travellers.
2. The ferry ride to and from Cochin is still priced at Rs 2.50 per trip – an inexpensive & picturesque ride which beats the traffic any day.

Suggested contact details:

Stay

1. Tea Bungalow Hotel– A heritage property, this was the erstwhile guest house of tea majors, Brooke Bond.+91 93887 19678, info@teabungalow.in
2. Eden Garden Homestay – Mel and Judith have managed to create this idyllic place in the middle of the town. Lush green with a pond to add to the scenic beauty, they are perfect hosts.+91-98479 30003

Art, History & Culture

1. Greenix Village – A tourist savvy set up for promoting a plethora of Kerala’s art and culture, all under one roof. Daily shows are available. +91- 93883 71951
2. Muziris Trip to Kodungallur – Lijo Jose – +91-98462 49482