Country Roads

Sitting crouched on Dharam Singh’s musty folded mattress and bouncing up each time that the truck hit a rain battered pot hole, I couldn’t have imagined that the very next year I would be cruising along the same highway, only this time with wheels designed for luxury. The trips were starkly contrasting: one a backpacking […]

Chronicles In Stone

My guide ignores the silenced awe that has rendered me immovable, gazing wide-eyed at the detailed carvings of a set of grinning teeth of a monkey, rotating bangles and see-through printed clothing on a voluptuous celestial nymph – all in stone. He is far too familiar with the look of disbelief amongst visitors, and continues […]

Planter’s Punch

You can meet G.A. Carver Marsh on the 32nd hairpin bend while climbing the Upper Parlai of Anaimalai Hills and throw in a gratuitous wave at his statue for an excellent holiday that you are about to have!

Penny Wise

Khan Bahadur Haji Abdullah Haji Kasim Saheb Bahadur’s labyrinthine name is associated with a contrastingly small, unassuming house, not too distinct from other buildings of Udipi. Characteristic to coastal Karnataka, the weathered red Mangalore tile roof hangs over bluish-whitewashed walls in the heart of the town. The century old house lies adjacent to the Corporation […]

Version 2.O

It is easy to yearn wistfully at a worn-down spot in the city, and remember its former days of glory. When buildings disintegrate with the vagaries of time, it is but imperative that a new scape will emerge. Every city witnesses old buildings acquire the glitzy sheen of urban revamp – sometimes distasteful, but other […]

24 Hours In Muscat

The most diverse slice of the Arabic peninsula, the Sultanate of Oman, offers a heady mix of ancient frankincense heritage, mysterious alleys of local souqs, a paradisiacal coastline and a cosmopolitan vibe all rolled into one. 24 hours may be too little to explore the capital city Muscat, but maneuver through the medley of experiences […]

Beyond Muscat

A quick climb to the most vantage spot, the base of the lighthouse of Sur, will immediately corroborate your decision to drive here. From this perch, peak into the historic dhow (ship) building yards of the city, take in the glistening Big Sur River and see the white lego like houses against the pale brown […]

In Between Oman

Sleeping for the whole night on the beach can be ludicrous in more ways that one. Crabs, sand and the salty breeze conspire to make the experience memorable in ways that are more daunting, less fun! But as I first lay on the Besant Nagar beach in Chennai at 3 a.m., all I could think […]

Where Wild Things Roam

Eyes and ears affixed on Dieter, each one of us was transported to our very own version of him lying down in the thick forest, face to the ground, holding his breath, pretending to be dead. That was the only way that the grizzly bear would lose interest and move along. The moment was pregnant […]

Bastar Dushera

Written for Chhattisgarh Tourism, this coffee table book explores the history, significance, current ambience and seasoning of different days of the Jagdalpur Dushera in Chhattisgarh. The festival is held in October, overlapping with the Navratris as a run up to the end of the festival, but is not connected to the usual legend of Lord Ram’s […]

Heritage Arc

Two thin blue capillaries can be seen on the vast map of India, fusing with each other, close to where the heart of the subcontinent lies. Allahabad is situated at this significant confluence of the Ganga and Yamuna rivers (along with the mythical Saraswati), opening the traveller to a world of mythological and spiritual wonder. […]

A River Runs Through It

“Your hair is shorter! Not nice! Long hair better!”, came a sharp chiding voice from a distance, as I flung my backpack on my shoulder, while trying to haggle with the auto rickshaw driver at the same time. In a quick swooping moment, my backpack was plugged away from me, strapped onto thin brown shoulders […]