As a little girl studying in one of the oldest convent schools of India, Mrs. Bhuvan Kumari always dreamt of having her very own little white walled cottage with a red tin roof, in the valley of Jeolikot. She passionately reminisces about her scouting for the 200-700 years old typical Kumaon wood carved doors and windows ( likhai work) to make her’ white stone walled’ muse come to life. Fifteen years ago, she started with a single room on the insistence of friends and now provides an exquisite five roomed home to many eminent people, in the backdrop of the picturesque valley. Built on 8 acres of land of the erstwhile Vergamound Estate, ‘The Cottage’, emits Mrs. Kumari’s unique sense of tastefully done interiors coupled with an illustrious history from the times of Vivekananda. He is known to have meditated under a tree which stood, now where the sitting area begins. The property extends downhill in an orchard full of fruits, which has been reverted back into the forest, to keep the natural flora and fauna alive. It is easy to spot barking deer, birds and wild fowl who roam freely in the vicinity.
With the essence of the old village house intact, The Cottage has been restored meticulously. Different levels to the house form a mysterious maze, transporting you from one ornate space to another. Thoughtful gifts in the form of paintings from prestigious artistes and other visitors adorn the walls of the living room, keeping deeply formed associations alive. The bathrooms, unarguably, are most creatively done with bright cheerful paintings of birds to make that marginal time one spends in the bathroom, most memorable. Paintings of parrots, pheasants, peacocks and large vivid flowers have an air of a delightful irrational imaginativeness splattered on the walls. Amusingly named ‘Hanuman Orange’ (a deep orange associated with the Indian God, Hanuman) doors which open up into the sit out form an ideal contrast to the white walls. Spotless bed clothes and fresh flowers are a must for Mrs. Kumari herself; a pleasure she likes to extend to her guests as well. A thoughtful surprise awaits you in bed, in the form of a hot water bottle on cold winter nights.
A visit to the ivy clad Cottage is not complete without a walk down to the neighbouring tea shop with the three dogs accompanying you at heel. Spoken about with utmost reverence by the villagers, the oldest dog, Kallu Singh Ji, is often mistaken for a human being by most visitors. Though Junior and Nanhi Bai are also extremely affectionate, pets are not recommended to be brought along to avoid any conflicts.
The staff, an integral part of the house, has been long associated with Mrs. Kumari’s family in Madhya Pradesh, and are exceptionally hospitable. They exude the same respect and congeniality with which they have been included in the family and can be counted upon for a delicious meal or a perfect fire in the sit-out on a chilly night, to watch the Nainital lights make an ‘Om’ on the hill above.
Activities
- The Cottage is perfect for to immerse in the natural beauty of the valley with long walks in the fruit orchard, which leads down to the river below.
- A bird watcher’s haven, interested travellers can walk through the orchard to get a glimpse of a variety of birds of Kumaon.
- Short and mild treks are a must to the famous Major Warrick’s Estate. Though it has now been taken up by a local, one can dig out legendary stories from old timers.
- Conveniently located, it is a great pit stop for all destinations in Kumaon; Nainital is only about 17kilometers away. Bhimtaal, Sattaal & Naukuchiyataal are also short drives away so that one can make it back to The Cottage in the evening to catch the bonfire.
Facilities
- Though it is best and cheaper to organise a cab from Kaatgodam or Nainital (or wherever one might have arrived), Mrs Kumari can assist in booking for pick up and drop and also sight- seeing.
- Being a place which calls for a little isolation from the busy hustle-bustle of city life, one can get connected to the internet on request at her own room.